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The most useful is tidiness — find a place for each tool and return it there when you have finished with it. Second, do not use too much force to tighten components — the nuts and bolts of lightweight parts can easily shear. Third, remember the order in which you take components apart. Finally, keep all of your tools clean and dry.
The guidelines below provide you with general principles for some of the most common tools or operations in bike repair. Using Allen keys Using pliers Put the long axis of an Allen key in the Allen bolt to make the key easier to use, both for repeated turns and in places where space is tight or restricted, such as putting a bottle cage on the down tube. Use the short axis of an Allen key to make the final turn when tightening an Allen bolt — for example, on a chainring.
You can also use this technique to start undoing an Allen bolt. Use long-nosed pliers to hold cables and keep them under tension. download a small pair with pointed jaws for tight areas. Keep the jaws clean and grease-free. Lubricate the pivot with light oil occasionally.
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Fix a cable tidy on to a brake cable to stop the ends from fraying. Push the cable tidy on to the end of the cable and squeeze it flat with your pliers. If you are gentle, you can use the inside jaws of your cable cutters. Using a spanner Cutting cable outers Always use the correct size of spanner for the nut you are tightening or loosening. Hold the spanner firmly at the end to maximize leverage. Make sure that the jaws fully enclose the nut to prevent it from slipping.
Cut a brake cable outer between the spirals of the metal tube under the sheath. If the spirals become compressed, squeeze them with the inside of your cutter jaws until they are round. Cut a gear cable outer through the wire under the sheath. If you need to, squeeze the wire with the inside of your cutter jaws until its crosssection is round again. Organizing a bike workshop Regularly maintaining your bike and carrying out essential repairs means that you can keep your bike at peak performance.
If you have the space, the best place to do this is in a workshop that is well organized and equipped with all the tools you need for your particular bike.
Create a workshop that is dry with plenty of light — and follow the four key workshop principles. Grit and dirt, for example, stick to lubricants and act as a grinding agent. Clean the parts regularly to keep them running smoothly and prevent them from wearing out. While cleaning your bike, check all the parts and components for damage.
The process of cleaning is straightforward. First remove old lubricants by applying a degreaser. Then wash the dirt off with water and detergent. Finally, rinse, dry, and lubricate the exposed moving parts. Rinse with clean water and dry everything with a cloth. Removing dirt and oil 1 Remove both wheels from the bike and put the frame in a workstand or hang it up. This allows the chain to run freely so that it can be cleaned thoroughly. Spray on to the chainset, front and rear mechs, and the chain, covering each link.
Spray the chainrings, chainset, and front mech with more degreaser if there is still stubborn oil and dirt inset. Turn the pedals so the chain runs through the sponge. Cleaning your bike Use a cassette scraper to gouge out any dirt and debris that has accumulated between the sprockets. Start at the top and work down. Use a hard-bristled brush on the cassette so that the degreaser reaches into the spaces between the sprockets.
Allow a few minutes for the degreaser to work and wash off with soapy water. Each time a part of the bike is lubricated, remember to remove the old oil and grease with degreaser first see pp. Applying new lubrication on top of old does not work because lubricants attract grit and dirt to the bike and form a grinding paste that can cause damage. The lubricants needed vary from light spray oil dry lube and heavier oil wet lube to light grease manufactured specifically for bikes and anti-seize compounds.
Dribble some light oil inside the cable outers before you fit a new cable. This makes sure that the cable runs smoothly inside. Poor gear-shifts are often due to cables running dry inside their outers. The same is true of brakes that are hard to apply and slow to return to the ready-to-use position. The jockey wheels on the rear mech also need some light oil where they rotate around the jockey wheel bolts.
Oil the chain after riding in the wet, and clean, dry, and lubricate when cleaning your bike see pp. Except in winter, or in bad conditions, use light oil from a spray can or bottle.
Bottom brackets and hubs need most attention, but headsets need regreasing less often. Riding regularly in the rain shortens the interval between lubrications. Spread anti-seize compound on the seat pin and stem to prevent the two components from binding with the seat tube or steerer tube.
Although you can use grease in place of anti-seize, always use a copper-based anti-seize compound for lubricating components made with carbon fibre. Before going for a ride, run through a few checks to reduce the chances of a mechanical failure: The checks will help to avoid many of the accidents caused by equipment failures.
Safety checks help the management of a bike, allowing the replacement of parts in good time or the completion of nonurgent maintenance work. Run a finger under the down tube where it joins the head tube. Cracks may form in the metal here because of the heat of the brazing process. If there is any movement, check the stem and steerer bolts and tighten them if necessary.
Apply each brake fully and push the bike forwards. If the lever pulls to the bar before the brake stops a wheel rotating, adjust the travel or replace the pads. Lift the bike, slowly spin the wheels, and check the tyres for cuts, splits, or bulges.
If you find a bulge, or are in any doubt, replace the tyre. Check the tyre pressure. The rivets form potentially weak areas where stresses in the metal may develop into cracks. Gears that will not mesh properly after you change them can be distracting and, if you look down to see what is wrong, potentially dangerous.
If the gears are correctly adjusted and the chain is still jumping, check for a stiff link. The timetable on the right provides a good template since it shows the tasks you should perform on your bike and suggests when you should do them.
Your schedule depends on how much and where your bike is ridden. A heavily-used, off-road bike requires attention at much shorter intervals, whereas a bike used for infrequent, short road journeys will need less regular attention.
However, work carried out as part of a service schedule does not replace the safety checks that must be carried out before every ride see pp. You should also check your bike and lubricate the transmission every time you clean it. Play, absence of oil lines, and cracked seals are all evidence of worn seals, which should be replaced by a qualified technician. Fork and shock sag see pp. The chain will not shift on to a larger sprocket or it shifts but does not run smoothly on it.
The chain shifts cleanly, but jumps on the sprockets when pressure is applied to the pedals. The chain rubs on the inner then the outer side of the front mech cage.
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On a bike with a single chainring, the chain persistently falls off. When you apply the front brake and push the bike forwards, the headset moves forwards relative to the head tube. There is side-to-side play of a hub on its axle, or when turning the axle in the hub you feel either a roughness or tight and loose spots. When pedalling forwards, the cassette spins, but there is no drive to the bike. Alternatively, the cassette spins before the drive is engaged or there is much side-to-side play in the cassette.
It explains why a bike may be showing these symptoms and then suggests a solution, referring you to the pages where you will find a detailed sequence of steps to guide you. If you still find the problem difficult to solve, consult the How They Work pages for the specific part you are working on, so that you can understand it better. However, sometimes, the symptoms confronting you can be due to a different malfunction to the one suggested in this chart. If after consulting the relevant pages in the book you still cannot solve the problem, ask the experts at a good bike shop for help.
The two brake pads do not contact the braking surface at the same time. The brake pads contact the braking surface without pulling the lever too far, but are ineffective at slowing the bike.
The fork regularly reaches the limit of its travel bottoms out. The front wheel judders up and down when cornering. Strip down the cables, flush the outers with degreaser, clean the inners with degreaser, lubricate, and reassemble.
See pp. The cable has stretched or the relevant mech is poorly adjusted. Unclamp the cable at the mech, pull through any slack, and re-tighten. Then set up the mech. Either the chain has a stiff link; or the chain or sprockets, or both, are worn; or a chainring may be bent Check the chain for a stiff link and remove it if found.
If no stiff link, replace the chain. If the problem persists, replace the sprockets. If the chainring is bent, replace it. The bottom bracket is worn or its axle may be bent. If the bottom bracket is a cartridge type, replace it. If it is a hollowaxle bottom bracket, replace the cup and bearing units. If it is a BMX bottom bracket, it may be possible to replace the bearings if they are worn, or to replace the axle if it is bent. The headset is loose or worn. Strip and inspect the headset.
Replace bearings if worn, regrease, and reassemble. Inspect the cups and races; if they are worn you should let a good bike shop replace the whole headset.
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A spoke may have broken. Replace the spoke and true the wheel. The hub bearings are worn or, in the case of tight and loose spots, the axle is bent. Replace the bearings or the axle. The freehub body is worn.
Replace the freehub body. Grit and dirt is inside the cable outers or the lubrication on the inner cables has dried. Strip down the cables, flush the outers, and clean the inner cables with degreaser, lubricate both, and reassemble. The pads are wearing down or the cable has slipped through the clamp bolt. If the pads are not too worn, take up the extra travel by unclamping the brakes, pulling the cable through the clamp, and tightening.
If the pads are worn, replace them. Your brakes are not centred. Follow the procedures for centring the type of brakes on your bike. There is grease on the pads, foreign bodies embedded in them, or they are wearing unevenly. You may even need a different compound of brake pad. Rub the pads with emery cloth. Remove foreign bodies with long-nosed pliers. Fit new pads if they are worn unevenly.
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Seek advice from a bike shop regarding different pad compounds. Pump in more air. Replace springs with heavier duty springs. The front of the bike is diving under braking because the fork is not stiff enough. Pump in air, or increase pre-load, according to the type of fork on your bike. Insufficient air in the shock, or too much damping, means that the shock is not returning from each compression quickly enough.
Set up the sag on the shock again.
If the problem continues, use the damping adjustment to speed up the action of the shock. Replacing the parts as soon as they become worn not only keeps the bike running smoothly but also reduces the chances of an accident. You will save money, too, since worn parts have the knock-on effect of wearing out other parts. As you run through your safety checks see pp. If you spot any danger signs, take action as soon as you can. You must replace a damaged part before you next ride your bike.
Checking for wear Regularly check the tyres, rims, brakes, chainrings, cables, and sprockets so that you can spot signs of wear as early as possible. Cables Rims and tyres Brakes Sprockets Chainrings Sprockets and chainrings Brakes Worn teeth Worn brake pads Regularly check for worn or missing teeth on a chainring or sprocket.
The chain can jump when you apply pressure to the pedals, especially if you are out of the saddle, and you may be pitched forwards and crash. Replace the chainring or sprocket as soon as you see this sign see pp.
Regularly check all the brake pads for uneven wear. This is a sign that they are not contacting the braking surface evenly. Fit new pads and adjust your brakes correctly see pp. Spotting danger signs Cables Split or frayed cables Check all cables and cable outers for signs of splitting and fraying.
Frayed inner cables can snap, leaving you without gears, which is inconvenient, or without brakes, which is dangerous. Change the cable before you ride again see pp. Worn or split outers reduce the effectiveness of your brakes and allow dirt to get in and clog the cables. Change the outer as soon as you can. Rim brakes will gradually wear out the rims, especially if you ride off-road or in winter. Eventually, the rims will fail and you could crash. Cracks around the nipples of the spokes where they join the rim are a danger sign, too.
Replace the rim if you see these signs. Check the whole circumference of both tyres for bulges in the tread or the walls. Tyres with bulges or distortions are very likely to blow out if you ride on them.
If you see any of these signs, replace the tyre see pp. Split tyre Worn tread Check each tyre for splits or cuts in the tread or side walls. A large split means that the internal fabric of the tyre is damaged, so the tyre is likely to blow out.
Smaller splits and cuts will let sharp objects penetrate the tyre, causing at least a puncture and possibly a rapid blow-out. Replace the tyre if you see any splits or cuts see pp. Look closely at the tread of both tyres for signs of wear. If the tread is worn, the tyre has lost structural strength and can break down and distort or bulge.
The result can be a blow-out during the course of a single ride. A tyre that has been skidded and lost enough rubber to develop a flat spot can also be dangerous. Replace the tyre if you see either sign see pp. The mud, sand, and water that your wheels spray up into every part of the bike combine to form a damaging, grinding paste. Salt, often used to treat roads where ice is likely to occur, will quickly corrode your Protecting a bike Fit mudguards, insert seals, and lubricate the exposed parts to protect a bike from wet conditions.
Regular cleaning and lubricating helps with protection, but try to stop the mud and salt from reaching the delicate parts of the bike in the first place. The overall aim when protecting a bike in winter is to prevent water reaching non-exposed parts and stopping water from washing off the lubricant on exposed parts.
Mudguard Headset Mech Seat post collar Pedal Chain Shielding exposed components Sealing the seat post collar Sealing the headset Keep water out of the point where the seat pin enters the frame. Mark this junction and remove the pin. Pull a piece of narrow road bike inner tube over the frame. Insert the pin through the tube to the mark and tie-wrap the tube to secure it. Place a cover over the headset to provide protection. You can fit a protector to the headset without removing any components by simply joining up the velcro.
Preparing for wet weather Fitting mudguards Fasten a mudguard to the seat pin and you will block much of the spray from the back wheel. For the front wheel, fit a guard that clips on to the frame and is secured in place with tie-wraps.
Full mudguards, which attach to the fork and rear drop-out, give almost full protection for on-road biking but get clogged up off-road. Weatherproofing the transmission Cleaning and lubricating the chain Cleaning and lubricating mechs Lubricate and clean your chain as often as you do in summer and after every wet ride.
Apply the same light lubricant that you use in the summer and then apply a heavier oil, which will not wash off as easily. Only coat the rollers and insides of each link with heavier oil because it attracts more dirt.
Dribble oil on to the pivots around which the front and rear mechs move. Use a heavier, wet oil rather than the oil you would normally apply during the summer. Every time you dribble oil like this, first flush out the old oil by dribbling some degreaser on to the pivots and letting it sink in for a few minutes. Cleaning and lubricating pedals Apply heavier, wet oil to lubricate the retention mechanism of clipless pedals after degreasing all the moving parts.
The heavier oil will not wash off as easily as dry oil. Regularly clean off old oil with degreaser and apply new oil in order to prevent the accumulation of grit and the consequent increase in pedal wear. Finetune and regularly service the system to ensure that the gear-shifters, chain, chainset, cassette, and mechs work together in perfect harmony.
Cables are under constant tension and need to be replaced regularly and kept well lubricated. They must also be inspected often and replaced if they show signs of wear. Shifters require only occasional lubrication of their inner workings. How they work An inner cable connects the gear-shifter to the mech, and allows the rider to change gear.
Gear-shifts made by a gear shifter cause the front mech to shift the chain from one chainring to another, or the rear mech to shift the chain from one sprocket to another. Pulling the gear cable shifts the chain from a smaller to a larger chainring or sprocket; releasing the gear cable shifts the chain from a larger to a smaller chainring or sprocket. The left-hand shifter controls the front mech; the right-hand shifter controls the rear mech. Controlling the gears The cables and shifters on a bike allow the rider to effortlessly control the gear system.
When the shifter is pushed, the cable pulls the rear mech inwards, moving the chain from a smaller to a larger sprocket. When the shifter releases the cable tension, the springs on the rear mech pull the jockey wheels, and the chain, back to a smaller sprocket. When the rider depresses a lever on the inner side of the lever hood, the cable is released and the mech moves back. On this Shimano gearshifter, the brake lever also acts as a shift lever.
When the rider pushes the brake lever inwards with the fingers, the control cable attached to it is pulled and a ratchet mechanism is lifted. A click of this mechanism equals one shift of the front or rear mech, which moves the chain across the chainring or sprockets. The ratchet mechanism then holds the cable in its new position. Change them as a matter of course at least once a year, or more often if you are a heavy user.
Lubrication reduces the effects of friction between the inner cable and the cable outer, and helps to keep out water and grit. If the gears become difficult to shift to a different chainring or sprocket, the cable is probably dry and needs lubrication.
Friction increases with cable length. Cut cable outers as short as possible, but not so short that they constrict the cable or restrict the steering. If you are unsure how much cable outer to cut, look at the arc of the outers on other bikes see pp.
Replacing a Shimano gear cable Place the gear-shifter in the smallest sprocket for the rear shifter and the smallest chainring position for the front shifter. You also need to do this if you are replacing a brake cable. Pull the tape off slowly. Drop handlebar gear cables Pull the gear cable through pre-cut lengths of cable outer with the long-nosed pliers.
Then tighten the bolt with the Allen key. Put the rear shifter in the smallest sprocket and the front shifter in the smallest chainring. Remove the old cable from under the hood cover. Dribble oil into a cable outer, which should be cut to fit between the cable guide and the component. If it is cut too short, it constricts; if it is too long, it increases friction see pp. Keep the cable to the mech under tension as you clamp it. However, mountain bikes are often subjected to harsher conditions than road bikes, as they are often ridden through dirt and mud, so the cables must be replaced and lubricated more regularly.
Take special care if your mountain bike has cable disc brakes because they have longer lengths of cable outer and the cables require lubricating more often. Make the outers long enough to allow the cable to travel freely inside. Straight handlebar gear cables Replacing a Grip Shift gear cable Push the cable into the hole until its end shows through the barrel adjuster on the outside of the shifter body.
For the rear cable, put the shifter into the smallest sprocket. For the front cable, put the front shifter into the smallest chainring. Replacing a Dual Control gear cable 4 Thread the inner cable through each length of outer cable. For a front mech, insert the cable into the clamp. Cut off any excess cable.
The mech pivots and jockey wheels must be checked for wear and lubricated. The front mech must be properly aligned with the chainrings. How they work The front and rear mechs change the gears on a bike. To change up a gear, the shifter is used to pull on the cable, which causes the front mech to push the chain from a smaller to a larger chainring or the rear mech to push the chain from a smaller to a larger sprocket.
To change down a gear, the cable is released, causing the springs in both mechs to move the chain to a smaller chainring or sprocket. Each mech moves around a pivot point.
High and low adjusting screws ensure that the mechs do not push the chain beyond the largest chainring or sprocket, or pull it beyond the smallest. Once its travel is set up, and provided the cable tension is sufficient, the mech will make a single, clean gear-shift for every click of the shifter.
They move in the same plane as the chain and are spring-loaded to preserve the tension in the chain.
Two mech plates enable the jockey wheels to change gear upwards, while the plate spring enables the jockey wheels to change gear downwards. Mech plate Transfers cable pull to the jockey wheels Plate spring Pulls the mech back as cable is released High and low adjusters Limit the travel of the mech Cable clamp Attaches the cable to the mech plates Cable Pulls the mech plates Jockey wheel spring Preserves the tension in the chain Jockey wheel Pulls and pushes the chain Jockey wheel cage Holds the jockey wheels Working with the shifters The front and rear mechs work in harmony with the shifters to provide easy, quick, and accurate gear-shifts whenever the rider needs them.
When the cable is released, the plate spring moves the chain back to a smaller sprocket. Large sprocket The chain is moved to the largest sprocket by the pull of the cable.
Small sprocket The chain is returned to the smallest sprocket by the plate spring. This moves the chain from a smaller to a larger chainring.
There are two main kinds: There are two important maintenance jobs for a front mech: You should also clean the mech regularly to prevent the build-up of dirt, which interferes with the way it works and will quickly wear it out. Correct shifts depend on the front mech travelling a certain distance per shift. High and low adjusting screws on the mech will control this travel.
Note the distance by which the lower edge of its outer side clears the largest chainring. This should be 2mm. If it is more or less, undo the framefixing clamp and raise or lower the front mech. Front mech Undo the cablefixing clamp until the cable becomes free.
Use degreaser, and then wash and dry the whole area. Occasionally, you may find that the chain does not quite move on to the next sprocket when you make a single shift, or else it skips a sprocket in an overshift.
In either case, the rear mech needs adjusting.
You will also need to follow the steps in this sequence whenever you fit a new cable see pp. To ensure that the rear mech works faultlessly, pay particular attention to its jockey wheels because this is where oil and dirt can accumulate. Degrease and scrub them every time you clean your bike see pp. Whenever you lubricate the jockey wheels or the rear mech pivots, make sure that you wipe off any excess oil. Shift the chain on to the biggest chainring and smallest sprocket, then undo the cable-fixing clamp so that the cable hangs free.
If the rear mech does not shift all the way on to the next biggest sprocket, screw out the barrel adjuster until it does. If the mech over-shifts and skips a sprocket, screw in the barrel adjuster until it stops. Prevent the jockey wheels from making contact with the bigger sprockets by screwing in the adjuster that butts on to the rear mech hanger on the frame drop-out.
Remember to make this adjustment if you fit a block or cassette with bigger sprockets than usual. They require little routine maintenance and, since they are sealed, most hub-gear systems do not need to be lubricated regularly. The control cables must still be inspected regularly and replaced if they are worn. How they work All hub gears work according to the same basic principle. A system of internal cogs make the hub casing, and therefore the rear wheel, turn at a different speed to a single, external sprocket that is driven by the pedals via the chain.
The sprocket is connected to the cogs by a driver unit and the cogs rotate the hub casing at different speeds. Spokes attach the casing to the rim, thereby revolving the rear wheel.
A shifter on the handlebar operates a mechanism attached to the hub. This mechanism causes various combinations of different-sized cogs within the hub to engage with a ring gear, which drives the hub casing. Each combination gives a different gear ratio, and the number of gears depends on the number of cogs within the hub.
This triggers a mechanism within the driver unit to move two carrier units containing cogs. Different cogs are brought into contact with the ring gears. When the cable is released, the spring-loaded carrier units move the cogs back to a different combination. This is usually stamped on the hub and the number of gears is indicated on the shifter. The hub-gear model illustrated in the steps of this sequence is the Shimano Nexus 7-speed gear, which is operated by a twist grip shifter.
Alternatively, bikes may be equipped with SRAM hub gears, as well as those made by other manufacturers, that are operated by thumbshifters. Some older bikes have Sturmey Archer 3-speed gears. Although they all work on the same principle, the methods used to change a cable are subtly different. Put the shifter into first gear. At this point, there is no tension on the cable, so it is the starting point for fitting a new cable.
If the cable is broken, the hub gear will have automatically returned to first gear, so move the shifter there to line up the system. Hub gear I 2 Remove the rear wheel see pp.
Undo the clamp to remove it from the old cable. Dribble a little oil inside the outer and then push the new cable through the outer. Return the wheel to the bike by placing the axle in the rear drop-outs and pulling backwards on the wheel so that there is tension on the chain. Do not pull so hard that the chain becomes tight. If there is a problem, the hub gear may need adjusting see pp. You will need to remove the satellite to clean it and this means removing the rear wheel.
On other occasions, you might find that the shift has lost some of its smoothness. In this case, the cable has probably stretched so that the shifter is out of phase with the gear mechanism.
To remedy this problem, use the barrel adjuster on the shifter to take up any slack in the cable. Every time the wheel is removed and put back on to your bike, run through the gears and check that they are shifting correctly.
If they are not, follow the last two steps of this sequence in order to make sure that the gears are running smoothly.
Finally, the hub-gear system has clear markings — look for the red dots and the yellow dots and triangles — to help you to set up the gears.
If a bike is fitted with a Sturmey Archer 3-speed hub gear, it may occasionally shift to second gear, but without any drive. When this happens, put the shifter into the third gear position and look at the cable where it runs along the chainstay. The cable will be slack so that it sags. Undo the cable-clamp bolt near to the hub-gear unit and pull the cable through the clamp until it runs in a straight line.
Re-clamp the bolt and the gears will shift perfectly. Remove the rear wheel by undoing and removing both its axle bolts see pp. The satellite is locked on to the hub by a lockring. Turn the lockring by hand until its yellow dot lines up with the one on the satellite. Line up its triangles with those on the axle. The satellite is now locked in place. Hub gear II Lift the satellite from the hub body, noting the relative positions of the two yellow triangles that are marked on it.
Let this drain out and spray light oil into the satellite. Tilt the bike so that you can see the underside of the hub gear. Look for the two red dots on the gear mechanism. One is marked on the satellite and one on the lockring. Both dots are marked on the underside of the gear where the cable runs. In fourth gear, these two dots should line up. If they do not, screw the barrel adjuster in or out until the dots line up. When they do line up, all the gear-shifts will be perfect.
The parts are in continual contact, and the motion of pedalling inevitably leads to wear. No matter how well you look after each part, they will eventually need removing and replacing. The pedals drive the chainset and, via the chain, turn a sprocket attached to the hub of the rear wheel, which in turn rotates the wheel. Bikes with derailleur gears use mechs to shift the chain on to different-sized sprockets and chainrings, which make up the cassette and chainset. Each combination of chainring and sprocket provides a different gear ratio, giving up to 27 different gears that can be used to tackle anything from steep climbs to gentle flats.
It consists of sprockets that slide on to the cassette body, which is bolted on to the hub. The cassette body houses the freewheel, which allows the wheel to turn when the cassette is stationary. To transfer power efficiently the chain must be strong, but flexible enough to fit securely around the teeth of the chainrings and sprockets.
To achieve this, a series of links articulate around joining pins, which are surrounded by revolving metal barrels. Rear wheel Driven by the sprockets Barrel Sits between teeth of chainrings and sprockets Joining pin Connects inner and outer links Outer link Shaped to allow quick gear shifts Inner link Rotates around the barrel Chainset Powered by pedalling Lightweight components The chain, cassette, and chainset are lightweight items that use the latest design and construction techniques to maximize strength and durability while maintaining an aerodynamic profile.
All chains eventually wear out, even if you clean and lubricate them properly. A worn chain, as well as being inefficient, will quickly wear out other transmission parts, and so prove expensive. To determine how much a chain has become worn, either use a specialist gauge from a bike shop or measure the length of 24 links. Thanks to the Internet, you can still download it.
Both books were as entertaining and funny as they were informative. He truly made anyone feel like they could fix their own bike, or at least the basic stuff that went wrong. The world was in the grip of an oil crisis causing gasoline shortages that crippled transportation.
And, one of the most popular solutions was the relatively new at the time, speed road bicycle. It was the missing link for the basic maintenance and repair issues that rendered so many of the bikes essentially unrideable. Many bikes had sew-up tires that had to be glued to the rims. Derailleur gearing and shifting was way beyond the 3-speeds that had been the bike everybody got around on before the speed arrived.
There was a negligible number of oil-dampened and air-sprung forks out there, with the majority running on simple stacks of elastomers.
There were no dropper posts, no electronic shifters, and no tubeless tires. I got mine for my 16th birthday in along with a Nintendo The fundamentals it taught me laid the groundwork for the real-world knowledge I would start amassing when I got my first bike shop job later that year. Modern how-tos like servicing and adjusting a Shimano derailleur clutch are peppered among the broader maintenance topics in the book.
Those fundamentals are still in the 6th edition. There are sections about things like a proprietary Manitou thru-axle, pairing your Garmin with your Shimano Di2, and rebuilding Crank Brothers pedals, each of which are already covered in high-quality video and text how-tos generated by the manufacturers themselves.The release tension adjuster is on the back plate of this double-sided pedal.
Smooth the area with emery paper. Small sprocket The chain is returned to the smallest sprocket by the plate spring. This ensures that all cable outers are bedded in and all bolts are tight.
Push the split pin into the grooves of the split-link pins. Deals and Shenanigans.